Welcome back to Sicily!

Last time, we enjoyed the vibrant colours of Palermo; from heavenly cathedral interiors to earthy street markets, from the rustic carretto siciliano to the lavish Teatro Massimo and one of the city’s few remaining palazzos. We also soaked up some of Sicily’s recent history, so this time, we’ll be heading out of the capital to see more of the island and delve much further into Sicily’s colourful past all the way back to the first human settlers. We’ll visit Greek temples and a roman villa, try our hand at kitesurfing and fall under the magical spell of puppets in Syracuse…

Uncover Sicily’s Turbulent Past

Last time, we got to see one of the world’s most glorious chapels with its eclectic mix of artistic styles but to understand this wonderful if slightly confusing stylistic mélange it helps to have an insight into Sicily’s dynamic history. Until her unification with Italy, Sicily was ruled by a whole host of different powers over the centuries including Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic, Norman, Hohenstaufen, Catalan and Spanish, creating a rich melting pot of cultures, so to kick off the second leg of our Sicily trip let’s join our travel guide and historian, Michael Scott, for a tour called – Sicily The Wonder of the Mediterranean to learn more about it. [The tour continues here.]

See Levanzo’s Prehistoric Cave Paintings

Next, we take a journey back even further, to the very beginning of human history, as we discover one of Sicily’s best archaeological sites. [You can learn more about this and other sites in this colourful guide.] Just a little further along the coast from Palermo, we arrive at the island of Levanzo, not far from Trapani, to see the palaeolithic and neolithic cave paintings at the Grotto of Genovese. It’s a short boat ride and a walk to get to the cave.

The paintings were made by the earliest human settlers around 11,000 years ago. How many animals did you manage to identify on the cave walls? There are apparently deer, horses, cattle and fish as well as people. I don’t know about you, but I didn’t find them that easy to recognize.

Go on a Kitesurfing Tour

Imagine the wind in your hair and the salt spray in your face, now, as we discover different parts of the Sicilian coast on this kite surfing tour, starting at Lo Stagnone, a picturesque lagoon and nature reserve, which happens to be a popular spot for the sport. Admire the skill of the experts battling the elements and enjoy the beauty of the kites as they bob and weave in the air and if you’re brave enough, strap on a kite and try to keep your balance.

Invoke all the Senses in Sciacca

We head next to the southern coast of Sicily and the region of Agrigento. Here, we find Sciacca, often referred to as the museum of the five senses because of all the experiences it has to offer. We’ll join Sicilians Rosella and Gianca on a mini tour where we’ll meet some local artisans, see how to prepare a traditional Sicilian pastry, explore some of the labyrinthine streets, watch the making of the spectacular giant puppets from Sciacca’s flamboyant carnival and learn how jewellery is made from ‘oro di Sciacca’ a local coral.

Explore the Valley of the Temples

Taking a look at this map of the area, there’s a lot more to explore in this historic region, so let’s head next to The Valley of the Temples. In this tour of the Temples we can wander around the archaeological park, see inside the early Christian necropolis or marvel at the temples of Concordia and Heracles in all their illuminated night-time splendour.

Whilst we’re in Agrigento, it would be rude not to stop and watch a local group, Gergent Folk Esemble, performing that famous Sicilian folk dance the Tarantella. Join in if you’re feeling energetic!

Peek inside an Ornate Roman Villa

For the next pitstop, we move inland now to find the elaborately decorated Villa Romane del Casale, built in the 3rd and 4th centuries AD by rich landowners under the Roman emperor Maximilian Herculius. Excavations, here, have uncovered one of the richest, largest, and varied collections of Roman mosaics anywhere in the world. As well as displaying incredible craftsmanship, they also give a fascinating insight into Roman life – one mosaic even shows girls in bikinis exercising (those purple dumb bells look just like mine) and another, which is an impressive 60 meters long, depicts wild animals from all over the world being captured to perform at the Colosseum. See some of these mosaics for yourself and keep a look out for one that’s a little bit cheeky!

Fly over Archimedes’ Birthplace – Siracusa

Back in the modern world we head east now. Hop on a helicopter with me for a quick aerial tour of lovely Syracuse, birthplace of Archimedes, the mathematician who discovered displacement theory whilst taking a bath and who, according to legend, ran through the streets crying ‘Eureka!’ Unfortunately, he forgot to put his clothes back on first, which is why it’s taken so long to live down! Of course, Archimedes is long gone now but his theories and many archaeological reminders of ancient times remain like the roman amphitheatre, which is the largest in Sicily and one of the best preserved structures in the city. You’ll also find a great cave, which the painter Caravaggio named the Ear of Dionysus, because it looks like a giant ear carved into the limestone.

Go Behind the Scenes of the Puppet Opera

Time for something a little bit different now and a spot of entertainment. Still in Syracuse, we can visit Il Teatro dei Pupi, the puppet theatre, and experience a long-lived Sicilian tradition. Firstly we meet Francesco Salamanca, a talented puppet maker or puparo. He introduces us to his craft with a wonderful demonstration from sketching out the designs to bringing the puppets to life. Many Sicilian puppet shows play out the brutality of the island’s history; characters in splendid Spanish armour and exotic Moorish costumes engage in fierce battle scenes. Here, we can watch a medieval battle or see behind the scenes at the Puppet Opera. These puppets are famous for being more elaborate than most, so let’s find out more about them at this exhibition [by Google Arts and Culture.] Finally, while we’re here, how about taking in a performance of Rinaldo and the Dragon’s Cave…

Sadly, that’s it for this time but still to come we have an enigmatic kingdom of stone heads, the home of an ancient Cyclops, some gorgeous gorges, a stay in a traditional villa and the chance to come face to face with Europe’s tallest active volcano, so join me again soon for more virtual adventures! Ciao for now!