Welcome to the second part of our adventures in Russia. Today we continue to enjoy the capital by visiting some more of its incredible sights and rich history. We’ll explore inside the real Kremlin, even the places tourists don’t usually get to see, learn a little about the Tsars, goggle at the funky iconic towers of St. Basil’s Cathedral, take a leisurely stroll through Red Square and discover the secrets behind Lenin’s tomb. Click on the links in the text to follow in my virtual footsteps or if you missed out on part 1, click here.
The Kremlin
First stop – The Kremlin. The beating heart of Russia and a symbol of Russian and formerly soviet power, it’s a medieval citadel in the centre of Moscow, overlooking the Moskva River to the south, Saint Basil’s Cathedral and Red Square to the east, and the Alexander Garden to the west. It used to be a popular site of pilgrimage as people from all over came to visit its sacred shrines but the revolution signalled the end of religion as well as the Tsars, who had ruled for nearly 400 years. In 1918, Lenin, leader of the Bolsheviks ordered the execution of the last Tsar, Nicholas II, and the famous bells were stopped from ringing. For nearly a century, the Kremlin became a ‘forbidden city’ synonymous with secrecy and intrigue. Fortunately, for us, though, much of it was opened up again in 2008 and now we can see it in all its glory…
A helicopter tour
To properly get our bearings, let’s take a quick aerial tour of the area by helicopter. You might also want to refer to the map as we go along, as it’s really quite a large complex [or hover over the question marks on airpano aerial tour to find out the names of the different buildings].
A peak inside the Kremlin
Back on terra firma again, we join our guide, Sophie Shevardnadze, to have a look around inside the Kremlin and meet some of the characters who work there…
Exploring inside The Grand Palace
There is so much to see but let’s start by taking a tour inside the Grand Kremlin Palace, formerly the Moscow residence of the great Tsars of Russia and now home to the President of the Russian Federation, Vladimir Putin. Try to stick to walking along the carpets to protect the precious parquet floors! The 19th century palace designed by Konstantin Thon, is 124 metres long, 47 metres high, and has a total area of about 25,000 square metres. It includes the earlier-built Terem Palace, nine churches from the 14th, 16th, and 17th centuries, the Holy Vestibule, and over 700 rooms including 5 reception halls named after the orders of Russia, making it worthy of the name Grand Palace! Like all of the Kremlin’s buildings, it gives just an inkling of the immense wealth accumulated by Russia’s ruling elite.
To see the parts of the Kremlin that most people never get to see we have to go on a rare behind-the-scenes tour, with our guide, Daniel Sandford. It really is stunning inside. I especially like the Terem Palace, with its lovingly restored 17th century interiors. We also get to take this tour the treasures of the Kremlin Armoury. Don’t miss the ornate royal carriages of the Tsars, the lavish winter sleigh and the knights in full armour on horseback.
Exploring the lavish cathedrals
Inside the Kremlin there are three cathedrals, which are worth seeing and learning about for their magnificent wall art. We can take tours of each of them – Annunciation Cathedral, Archangel Cathedral and, my personal favourite, for its exquisitely painted columns, Assumption Cathedral…
Let’s step inside Assumption Cathedral now to see the sumptuous decoration that is almost overwhelming.
The Cathedral of the Assumption, built in 1327, was at the centre of many important moments in the history of Russia and the Tsars and is considered to be the mother church of Muscovite Russia. In 1547 it provided the fittingly lavish setting for the coronation of Russia’s first Tsar (a term derived from the roman Caesar) at which point Moscow and the Kremlin became the new seat of power for the Holy Russian Empire. Ivan IV was the grandson of Ivan the Great but his troubled youth, his paranoia and ‘anger management problems’ led to the execution of thousands and he even ended up beating his pregnant daughter-in-law and killing his own son, earning him the less glorified title of ‘Ivan the Terrible‘ (or more accurately, ‘Terrifying’)! Ivan married Anastasia Romanov at the Cathedral of the Annunciation, which eventually gave rise to the great Romanov dynasty that ruled from 1613 to 1917, when the Anastasia Romanov you’ve more likely heard of was taken prisoner along with the rest of the Romanov family.
So much more to see…
I hope you still have plenty of energy because while we’re here we also have to visit Patriarch’s Palace, The Church of the Deposition of the Virgin’s Robe, with its painted wooden sculptures, and Ivan the Great’s Bell Tower. You might already know that Ivan the Great was famous for unifying the Russian lands and marking the beginning of Muscovite Russia but did you know he also put a tax on beards?!
Hidden beneath the Kremlin walls, is a network of secret tunnels, which has given rise to all sorts of legends and speculation. They were actually built mainly for security reasons to act as an escape route in case of a crisis but there are dungeons and even a cemetery under there too. Maybe also down there somewhere is the lost treasure of Ivan the Terrible, which continues to elude discovery (he’s still being terrible even now!)
Finally, let’s take a wander around the newest building, the State Kremlin Palace. This used to be used for the Communist Party’s congress meetings under the old soviet regime but is now an important arts venue. Let’s go in and have a look at the theatre and the lavish dressing rooms.
Outside, head through Trinity Tower and out of the Kremlin via Kutafiya Tower. Don’t forget to turn around and look at it from behind as you wave goodbye. It’s rather lovely.
A walk through Red Square
From here let’s take a walk through Red Square. Over the years, the iconic square has served as a marketplace, a festival ground, a meeting place and a parade ground for military displays during the soviet era. Look out for Kazan Cathedral, and the monument to Minin and Pozharsky and get some retail therapy at Moscow’s grandiose mall, the GUM store.
Lenin’s Tomb
The blocky structure is a mausoleum and the final resting place of Vladimir Lenin (Russian revolutionary, politician, and political theorist who governed Soviet Russia and the Soviet Union). The former leader’s body can still be found embalmed and on public display inside the tomb and makes for one of the more macabre tourist attractions. It’s not easy keeping him up-to-scratch for ongoing public appearances either. Every 18 months, the body has to be taken to a purpose-built lab beneath the viewing room to be re-embalmed by a team of specialists at quite a substantial cost to the Russian taxpayer (in 2016, the Russian Federal Guard Service reported that maintenance of the remains had cost 13 million roubles (over £155,000/$210,000))!
St Basil’s Cathedral
At the end of our walk we arrive back at Spasskaya Tower and the gorgeous and slightly bonkers St Basil’s Cathedral, which I’ve been most excited about seeing and which I always think of first when I think of Moscow. It conforms to no particular architectural style, although there are elements of many and it’s simply a joy to behold. Each of its crazily decorated exterior tents and domed spires caps one of nine separate chapels. Despite it’s whimsical Disney-like design, however, St Basil’s was actually commissioned way back in the 16th century by our old friend, Ivan the Terrible, to celebrate his victory over the Tartar Mongols. Legend has it that he gouged out the eyes of the architect after its completion, so that he could never reproduce such a beautiful cathedral.
Let’s have a wander around the fairytale exterior before heading inside to enjoy more of the magic…
Well, I hope you enjoyed today’s adventures. That’s all we have time, and energy, for but join me for the next part very soon, when we’ll be taking a break from the historical to discover more of the weird and the wonderful of contemporary Russia from exploring psychedelic salt mines and a real life Jurassic Park to the world’s deepest hole and a swimming contest with rather unconventional inflatables!
